![]() ![]() INPA doesn't work, carly doesn't work, BAV technic doesn't work, Snap-on solus (those big full function tablets) doesn't work, and ISTA doesn't show shadow codes/freeze frame data directly. From what I hear this is the conclusion about bmw's shadow code/freeze frame data access on an F series car: IIRC that isn't easily accessible on the F series chassis anymore, shadow codes or freeze frame data is harder to access on this car. This would start showing what, when, and how. Since you've had it for a few years, get that freezeframe data, especially from a BMW diag system. It's not as simple as "raise air raise fuel". There are MAF plausibility calculations that happen in the ecu, which would throw codes when the airflow is higher than expected. I do quite a bit of tuning and remote diagnosis and this is very important. It was bad, a MAF cleaning which did absolutely nothing caused me a weekend of havoc and repair bills.No, freezeframe is the data snapshot collected at the time of the error. A cluster repair guy I went to said I may have short circuited something with the MAF possibly containing some left over moisture/liquid. In the end, I ended up completely destroying my cluster. I got lean codes, my plugs all got torched my check engine light came on and then started flashing. only in mine, the rough idle got worse, the engine looked like it was going to jump out of the car and run away. I have a whole topic horror story about the same issues. ![]() I've considered disconnecting the battery to reset everything but don't want to deal with restoring the convenience features if I can avoid it (especially if the MAF is dead and won't do any good). Hopefully the computer just needed to sort itself out. I read somewhere that the computer cycles every 60 miles and I've done that now. No check engine light and everything seemed normal. Decided to travel the 30 miles home and the car ran fine on the freeway doing 70mph. Drove around the block and everything seemed fine. Shut the car off for a few moments and then started again, still idling rough. Felt like it was going to stall but never did, used my bro's ODBII scanner and it had 3 instances of the P0171 code for the lean condition and one code having to do with the MAF (I assume from the driving I did with it unplugged). ![]() Drove 30 miles to visit family and the car seemed fine.Īfter several hours I started the car and, while it fired right up, the idle was rough. ESP light was out, CEL still on of course. CVT quirk? Drove brilliantly after that, much like it had with the sensor disconnected. It happened twice before with this P0171 business and I think maybe once while the car was "normal". Hmmm.after allowing the sensor to dry for several hours I started the car (it did take an extra crank or two to fire up), and upon shifting into reverse the car didn't move for a few moments. Here's hoping I don't need a new $200 sensor! I understand that these sensors are very sensitive and should be treated with great care. I've acquired some MAF cleaner from O'Reilly. I'd like to ask you folks to chip in with any advice or ideas you have for the safest and most effective method of removing, cleaning, and reinstalling the MAF. BoSNiaN made a post saying "You do need to remove the airbox stuff sitting on top of the MAF, undo the clip for the wire connector, move the connector away, undo those 2 screws, and pull out the MAF." I'm hoping it's as easy as it sounds. Since I'll have the security bits I plan to remove the housing and sensor and spray them down with MAF cleaner. I've located the MAF underneath the airbox duct work and I'm just about to pick up the require Torx T20 anti-tamper bit as well.Īs seen on this post, there are a couple of different methods for removing and cleaning the MAF. Since this seems like it should be considered a regular maintenance item I'm thinking about taking photos and making a DIY. So I've finally got some time to work this P0171 DTC and I'm going to start by cleaning the MAF sensor. ![]()
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